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През нощта ме събуди глас: „Не можете да спите тук“. Беше 6 и нещо и жената беше дошла да отваря заведението. Аз станах, събрах си шалтето и спалния чувал, натъпках ги в раницата , минах през тоалетната на къмпинга отзад, след което тръгнах към бензиностанцията отсреща. Времето беше ясно и слънцето изгря рано рано. Повисях двайсетина минути с табелка край бензиностанцията, но прецених, че от тук не ще хвана стоп и попитах хората вътре дали наблизо по шосето към града има някаква спирка или широко място, където да мога да стопирам. Извадих късмет, защото само на половин километър имаше спирка. Повървях до там и замахах. На няколко пъти минаваха автобуси и дори попитах едно момче на спирката колко струва билета – 30 крони (около 8 лева). Продължих да махам и по някое време една кола ми спря. Шофьорът беше младо момче, което отиваше на работа. Каза ми, че няма да ходи до центъра, защото офиса на фирмата, в която работи се намира в покрайнините на града, но въпреки това ме закара доста по-навътре, отколкото отиваше. Направи ми впечатление, че беше облечен с планинарско мембранно яке – заради дъждовния климат хората често ползват подобни дрехи в ежедневието си.


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Сега трябваше да прекося половината град, за да изляза от другата страна. По тротоарите на улиците имаше велоалеи, по които постоянно минаваха велосипедисти. По някое време стигнах и до паркинг за градските велосипедчета, които могат да се ползват в рамките на централната част на града. Позачетох се и установих, че за да ги ползваш, трябва да си купиш някаква карта заредена с определена сума, от която впоследствие се изважда. Пътьом минах край много голяма катедрала, кацнала на единия бряг на една река. По централните улици беше тихо. Тук таме по автобусните спирки имаше карта на града, по която се ориентирах за посоката, в която трябва да вървя, но тя обхващаше само центъра и така не можех да преценя колко още ми остава. Направи ми впечатление, че тротоарите не са в блестящо състояние - тук таме имаше повреди, локвички. Нищо фрапиращо като цяло, но определено не бяха и на нивото на германските например.По едно време стигнах до някакви ремонти на шосето, правих заобиколки, вървях още, след това вървях още още, опитах да стопирам на едно място, но не беше подходящо и продъл;жих нататък. В крайна сметка, след заобикаляне на поредния ремонт по някакви велосипедни пътечки, вече извън града стигнах до една спирка, която беше последното адекватно място за стопиране. Цялото пресичане ми отне почти 3 часа ходене, с всичките около 27 кила на гръб. Слънцето вече печеше по обедно и времето беше дори топличко.


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Почаках около 40 минути и ме взеха двама мъже – журналисти в някаква телевизия, които отивали до близкото градче на около трийсетина километра. Казах им за къде съм се запътил и единия човек се оказа, че е точно от там – островите Лофотен. Препоръча ми да хвана ферибота за островите, който тръгва от Будо и ми разказа как като били малки се качвали по фериботите на аванта и се криели в тоалетните докато стигнат. Дори ми каза, че и аз можело да пробвам така. А като го попитах какво ще стане като ме хванат и предадат на полицията, отговорът беше – „че какво, те в полицията ще те нахранят, така че ще си пак на далавера“ :)) Посмяхме се доста – за втори път норвежци ме учеха на тарикатлъци. Освен това ме посъветваха, ако ходя на север до района на Тромсо да внимавам с жените, че били много опасни. Преди време имало някакви, които отвлекли някакъв мъж и го държали затворен с месеци. Имало голям недостиг на мъже в района :)

Стовариха ме на едно идеално място за стопиране където чаках не повече от половин час. Спря ми ванче с мъж, жена и момиче в него. Отивали до градчето Лавангер, до което оставаха около 70 км. Същото градче, до което отиваше момчето от предния ден, което ме остави 200 км по-напред, за да се моли. Еееех, колко далеч можех да стигна предния ден, без да се налага да вървя 3 часа из града и да губя половин ден… Но както установих статистически на по-късен етап от пътуването си – всяко зло за добро. Или конкретно казано – всяко по-дълго чакане се отплащаше съвсем скоро или кратко чакане или далечен стоп, или с нещо друго.

В началото се учудих на ванчето, защото в България такива превозни средства се ползват обикновено за групови превози, но човекът ми обясни, че има 5 деца и затова му трябва и голямо превозно средство. Момичето отзад беше едно от децата му, а жената до него – сестрата на съпругата му. От Лавангер взехме една друга жена и продължихме още 50 км нататък. Пътом ме заразпитваха къде отивам, как пътувам. Видяха въдицата и ме питаха дали ще ловя риба, какво ям. Разказах им, че пътувам с нисък бюджет, че си нося доста храна, че макарата ми остана в България и го попитах от къде мога да си купя газ, защото вече беше време за това. Предната вечер хапнах надве натри от сухото месо, което си носех, но скоро трябваше да почна да си варя ориз и макарони. Минавайки през някакво населено място се отбихме първо до един супермаркет. От там мъжът ми донесе 3 половинлитрови бутилки студена вода, а после завъртяхме още малко по улиците и спряхме пред друг голям магазин. Каза: „Хайде сега да идем да видим каква газ ти трябва“ Магазинът беше по-скоро супермаркет за къмпингарска, отпускарска, риболовна, планинарска и всякаква подобна стока. Имаше газ каквато ми трябва – 450 грамови бутилки. „А колко ти трябва?“ -„ 1“ - „Хайде да са 2“. Върнахме се в колата, когато последва следващия въпрос - „А риба не искаш ли да ловиш? Рибата е добра храна“. Не изчака отговора ми и се върна сам в супермаркета, и излезе след 5 минути с макара и корда в ръка. Направо не можех да повярвам колко неща ми купи тоя човек. Докато го нямаше в колата, жената ми каза, че той бил такъв – обичал да помага на хората винаги, когато може. А когато му благодарих той каза – „тия пари, които ги похарчих ги изкарвам за 1-2 часа и не са никакъв проблем за мен, обаче са голяма помощ за теб.“ Оставиха ме на една отбивка за почивка малко след градчето, като ми купи и кутия с ягоди местно производство от една дървена барачка там. Наистина ми беше трудно да изразя благодарността си към този човек. Представите ми за норвежците като студени хора започна да се руши и за кратко не само не остана нищо от нея, но и мнението ми стана напълно противоположно.

Край тази отбивка имаше малко езеро и гора, а от другата страна на шосето няколко къщи насред нивя засяти с фуражна трева. Слънцето продължаваше да пече и вече имаше тенденция да изгоря, нещо, което съвсем не очаквах да стане в тази държава. На отбивката от време на време спираха коли, но в повечето случаи бяха препълнени. Голяма част от минаващите по шосето пък ми сигнализираха, че са в другата посока на кръстовището, което се намираше няколко километра напред. И така падна едно дъъълго чакане. От тук нагоре по шосе номер 6 няма големи населени места в близките 400 км – чак до Мо и Рана. Имах възможност да разгледам добре трафика. Немалка част от него се състоеше от кемпери, каравани и мотори. А повечето мотори бяха натоварени с куфари и багаж, а самите мотористи облечени в дебели водонепромокаеми дрехи почти като доспехи. И всичкия тоя туристически поток беше насочен към северните части на държавата – Лофотен и Норд Кап – най-северната точка в Норвегия, както всъщност и една от най-северните на континента. По едно време две момчета с мотори спряха на отбивката и след известно време ме викнаха. Рекоха – „Абе гледаме те, че чакаш от бая време, та решихме да те викнем да се подкрепиш с малко хляб и сирене – само това имаме, ама по-добре от нищо“. Бяха германци от Мюнхен, които ходили до Норд Кап и сега се връщат. Общо 3 седмици обиколка. На север бая дъжд ги бил повалял. Подариха ми и една миниатюрна тубичка с крем против слънчево изгаряне с 10 фактор, а аз продължих да махам край пътя. Общо висях там към 2 часа, когато един пикап с прикачено ремаркенце, возещо дълги широки тръби отби и ми спря.

Шофьорът не говореше добре английски, но все пак достатъчно, за да можем да си говорим криво ляво. И отиваше чаааак до Мо и Рана. Още едно потвърждение, че дългите чакания се отплащат. Тук е мястото да отбележа, че служебните коли, или по-скоро колите, използвани за работа са с различни номера – зелени. На тези коли обикновено може да се ползват само предните седалки за превоз на пътници. Задницата е отделена с мрежеста решетка и седалки там няма (ако изобщо моделът на колата е бил със седалки). За тези автомобили се плащали по-малки данъци. Човекът работел в компания, занимаваща се с изкопни и строителни дейности, а той конкретно се занимавал с взривовете. Сега се прибирал към къщата си на някакъв остров западно от Мо и Рана, а тръбите трябвало да остави в едно градче по пътя, където негови колеги ще поемат.

Разказа ми за тунелите в Норвегия. Теренът в държавата е много планински, което прави прокарването на пътища доста сложна и скъпа задача и тунелите играят много важна роля. Те се копаят чрез взривяване, защото скалите са прекалено твърди и не могат да се пробиват чрез специализирани машини. Има дори тунели, които минават под морското равнище, а водата, която все някак успявала да проникне се изпомпвала навън с помпи. В дългите тунели има и големи вентилатори, които да изкарват въздуха през отдушници, или просто да го движат по дължина.. А ето и малко статистическа информация от уикито – в Норвегия има общо над 900 пътни тунела, с обща дължина над 750 км, включително най-дългия тунел в света – 24,5 км, както и най-дълбокият тунел в света – с дължина 7765 метра и дълбочина 287 метра под морското ниво. Първият е струвал около 154 милиона евро и е изграден за 5 години(1995-2000), а втория е струвал 71 милиона евро. А по-късно минах и през един тунел, строен от руски каторжници по времето на немската окупация през втората световна война. Беше значително по-нисичък и поради това камионите се придържаха далеч от стените. Повечето тунели, през които минах отвътре бяха измазани и укрепени, но с тънък слой бетон и си стояха ръбести, а някои по-стари и проблемни бяха тук там облечени в нещо като брезенти, закрепени с винтове, набити в скалите. В някои се случваще да текат и води тук таме.

Както казах, 400-те километра преди Мо и Рана са доста девствена територия, в която само тук там край пътя има малки населени места. Навсякъде се простираха иглолистни гори, големи буйни реки и езера. По реките често се лови пъстърва или сьомга, а на места минахме и край буйни водопади. Все още нямаше някакви високи и ръбати планини но когато стигнахме до Мусюен това започна постепенно да се променя. В това градче спряхме да хапнем и да оставим тръбите на колегите на моя спътник. Човекът ме почерпи едно ядене – нещо като нашенските кюфтета със сос, само че без соса, а гарнирани с варено зеле, варени картофи и смачкан грах. Видя ми се малко странен вкус за гарнировка, а още по-странно ми се видя, когато той си сложи сладко от титебар (местен див плод, представлява червено топченце с големината на боровинка и нагарчащ вкус). Самото сладко също леко нагарча, затова го ползвали често като гарнитура към солени ястия.

След като се наядохме продължихме, а теренът започна да става все по-планински. Двайсетина километра по-късно шофьорът се сети, че е забравил да даде някакви чертежи на колегите си поядоса се малко и докато се тюхкаше, и се чудеще как да им ги изпрати по-късно, мина през някакво малко населено място, на чийто изход ни спря полиция. Спря и колата преди нас. Първо мина край нея, забавяйки се няколко минути, а после дойде и при нас. С усмивки на лице си поговориха през прозореца с моя човек, който по едно време остана доста учуден, записаха се някакви данни и си тръгнахме по живо по здраво. И понеже говореха на норвежки и не разбрах нищо, си попитах какво стана. Минали сме с 85 км/ч през населено място, където имало ограничение от 60 км/ч. Моя човек всъщност въобще не забелязал знака за ограничението пък и не следял изобщо с каква скорост кара. Ако е карал с 1 км/ч по-бързо е щял да се раздели с книжката си за 3 месеца. А сега щял да се раздели само с около 800 евро. И въпреки, че стандарта на норвежците е много висок, човекът въобще не беше очарован. А жена му щяла да бъде още по-малко… Разказа, че имало някаква практика за изравняване на данъците в края на годината и тая година за пръв път му се случило да му върнат пари. И то долу горе, колкото глобата. А аз му казах - „ами тя държавата не дава лесно пари“ :))

Късно вечерта – към 22, когато всъщност на тази географска ширина слънцето още не беше залязло стигнахме до Мо и Рана и минахме по околовръстното, където слязох на кръстовището, което отива в моята посока. Стори ми се безсмислено да продължавам да стопирам, защото ми се бяха насъбрали няколко дни с по много малко сън а и следващите няколкостотин километра бяха още по-пусти от предишните, така че едва ли имаше голям трафик нататък. Затова пообиколих наоколо и намерих едно подходящо място до което се стигаше след спускане по малък склон край шосето. Там имаше една колибка, от чийто надпис на норвежки подразбрах, че е някаква помпена станцийка за отпадни води, но мястото наоколо беше чисто и немиризливо и най-важното – равно. Разпънах палатката, хапнах малко от пастърмата и легнах да спя щастлив и доволен. Бях изминал доста голямо разстояние, имах газ, възможност да ловя риба… Само оставаше да си купя от някъде ориз или макарони.. По някое време през нощта заваля… И този път съвсем не стана тъмно.

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