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На сутринта дъждът беше спрял и можех да сгъна палатката и да продължа. Планините наоколо се криеха в ниски облаци и беше въпрос на време да завали отново. Излязох на шосето облечен в дъждовните си дрехи и замахах. Имаше доста трафик, но таях известни подозрения, че повечето коли отиват някъде наблизо. Когато след час и нещо най-сетне един възрастен господин с голям джип ме качи, подозренията ми се потвърдиха. Само на няколкоститин метра започваше нещо като търговска зона, в която имаше няколко големи магазина. Човекът не отиваше далеч - едва на двайсетина километра, но това беше напълно достатъчно, за да ме измъкне на подходящо разстояние от града, където вече трафикът щеше да е за далечно разстояние. Слязох на един прав и равен участък, където имаше няколко колибки и крайпътни заведения. Ръсеше слаб дъждец, но не успя да ме измокри, защото само след 5-6 минути ми спря една от малкото минаващи коли. Беше сама жена, която отиваше……………. почти до Трьомсо !!!!!!!!!!!  Това беше толкова на север, че не само подминаваше островния архипелаг Lofoten, който ми беше основната цел, ами почти достигаше до Lyngen Alps - планините, които бях нарочил за по-късно посещение. Все пак обаче реших, че не искам да ида толкова далеч и си определих точка за слизане около 70 км преди Нарвик, където си бях набелязал едно място за снимане още преди да тръгна от България. Пътьом времето ставаше все по-лошо и дъждовно, а от един момент нататък влязохме в мъгла и гледката стигаше само до около 50-100 метра край пътя. Говорихме сравнително малко, защото жената не беше много в настроение - отиваше на помен починалата си неотдавна майка.  След известно време пресякохме северния полярен кръг, който минаваше през един сравнително висок планински проход. Наоколо нямаше никакви дървета - само трева и камъни, които бяха прошарени от все още недостопения сняг.  На това място имаше паркинг и някакъв музей, но аз не пожелах да спра за снимка и така продължихме. От другата страна слязохме отново на нискои дърветата се появиха отново. Пътьом минахме през малко градче, от където си купих ориз и кетчуп и така вече бях подготвен да спра на някое място за няколко дни и да снимам. Пътят се виеше край високи скални масиви по брега на фиорди, минавахме често през тунели, но лошото време скриваше гледките. След няколкостотин километра стигнахме ферибота, който беше единствения по пътя за Нарвик. Жената плати билета ми (около 9 лева) и качихме колата на борда. Пътуването трая двайсетина минути, по време на които стояхме вътре, пийвайки кафе от термоса, който тя си носеше. Акостирахме на сравнително малък остров, който беше свързан със сушата от другата си страна чрез няколко моста. Слязох точно на това място. Времето продължаваше да бъде облачно, но дъждът беше почти спрял - ръсеше едва едва.

Когато слязох, се поколебах дали да ида до подножието на върха Стетинд - може би най-емблематичния връх в Норвегия, който се намираше на 15 км, или да се установя в района, в който се намирах, където също си бях набелязал един скален връх с интересна форма. Избрах второто и започнах да обикалям в търсене на място, където да си опъна палатката. Наоколо имаше нещо като минитюрно селце, или по-скоро няколко къщи, нахвърляни от двете страни на първия мост. По хълмовете растяха нарядко ниски иглолистни дървета, а земята навсякъде беше покрита с дебел килим от мъхове и треви,  които джвакаха под краката ми на всяка крачка.  Беше трудно да открия достатъчно равно и достатъчно сухо място, с някаква питейна вода наблизо. Кривнах от шосето по нещо като малка чакълена уличка и наблизо зад дърветата, на двайсетина метра преди близката къща имаше чешма на една дъсчена платформа. Явно това щеше да бъде водоизточникът ми. Стотина метра по-нагоре по шосето, точно преди втория мост намерих едно сравнително сухо място, кацнало на хълм с панорамна гледка към фиорда. Теренът не беше никак равен, но успях да намеря едно по-плоско място с големина колкото да събера палатката. Сега оставаше да пообиколя района в търсене на подходящи гледни точки за снимане.

Първо слязох до първия мост, където във водата кротко се клатушкаше малка лодка. По брега имаше големи гладки скали, покрити с някаква чернилка. Тръгнах да слизам към водата и когато стъпих на чернилката така хубаво се изплющях по задник, че ми даде добър урок, къде да стъпвам и къде не. По-късно разбрах, че това са налепи от водорасли, а въпросната част от брега бива заливана от прилива всяка нощ… или ден… всъщност ми беше доста трудно да определя кое време беше в момента. Само часовника ми ме ориентираше, че е вече доста късно вечерта. Напук обаче на този факт облаците се разкъсаха и изгря слънцее. Беше съвсем тихо, а коли почти не минаваха по пътя. Минах по моста и поглеждайки надолу, видях цели пасажи от риба, които си плуваха кротко срещу течението. И понеже предварително бях запланувал да пробвам да ловя риба си бях взел и въдичката с мен. Опънах кордата и спуснах блесната надолу. Самата въдица я оставих сгъната, защото в противен случай рисковах да я счупя (все пак струваше само 9 лева, така че здравината и беше под силен въпрос), пък и нямаше да ми улесни задачата. Заклатушках блесната насред пасажа и след петнайсетина минути една риба взе, че лапна и се закачи. Ураа, първата ми риба! Достраша ме да я изтегля директно нагоре (то с 0,5 мм влакно можех и крокодил да изтегля, ама липса на опит, какво да го правиш), затова я извлачих по дължината на целия мост чак до брега. Навих кордата и оставих, и улова, и  въдицата в тревата до мантинелата - беше време за снимане, а не за кормене на риба.  На километър по пътя се отклоних встрани и тръгнах по нещо като скалисто плато, обрасло с ниски дръвчета, подобни на борчета. Слънцето падаше все по ниско към хоризонта, а около върхът Стортинд, който се намираше точно срещу мен започнаха  да се събират облаци. Беше съвсем тихо и магическо.  Прекарах около 2 часа в търсене на подходящи гледни точки и изчакване на подходяща светлина. След което се насочих обратно към базата си. Беше време да изчистя рибата и да я сготвя. Чистенето се състоя на скалите на брега.  По времето на тази процедура около мен се събра цяло ято чайки, които грачеха грозно и зловещо и имах чувството, че всеки момент ще ме атакуват. Е.. не посмяха, но в момента, в който се отдалечих на 2-3 метра от останките от рибата връхлетяха като изтребители, борейки се за всяко парче черво.  А рибата биде сварена с ориз и изядена, след което си легнах и заспах. Беше някъде рано сутринта… май. Имах сложна задача - да свикна да спя през деня и да снимам през нощта, а когато се придвижвах - обратното. И трябваше да съчетая някак двете неща.

Докато спях през деня заваля пак, но привечер спря. Тъкмо се бях понаспал вече. Намъкнах дъждовните дрехи и тръгнах на обиколка в противоположната на предишния ден посока. Този път насочих вниманието си към бреговете. И въпреки, че вече знаех колко са хлъзгави камъните, на няколко пъти пак щях да падна. Не си купувайте обувки с вибрамени подметки, ако мислите да ходите по мокри гладки камъни!  Минах и по третия мост, а от другата страна беше разположена другата половина на малкото селце - просто още няколко разхвърляни къщи. Наблизо жена и мъж се опитваха да риболовстват, но нямаха много късмет. Няколко километра по-нататък по пътя намерих един залив, в който бяха спрени две лодки, които станаха обекта ми за снимане за тази нощ. Облачното време и нощната тишина създаваха много специфична атмосфера, която подсилих с малко Porcupine Tree на мп3 плеъра. След няколко часа се върнах обратно и когато минах по дългия мост реших да повторя един от кадрите, които бях направил по-рано вечерта. Само че тоя път нещо липсваше… цяла група скали във водата бяха изчезнали. Взех да се чудя - на тоя мост ли ги снимах, на друг ли…  и чак тогава се усетих, че прилива ги е залял. А хич не бяха малки. Като стигнах до палатката установих, че сенника на фотоапарата ми липсва. Брех, а сега де… колко пъти съм бил на косъм да го изгубя.  А е ценен, защото няма от къде да взема друг такъв. Затова хванах пътя и се върнах всичките 3 и кусур километра до последното място, където снимах. Обиколих всичките камънаци и пътеки, по които бях минал. Но така и не го намерих. И когато се върнах до палатката, с вече съвсем подбити от ходене крака, го намерих на метър и половина от палатката… паднал докато я снимах…  Облаците се бяха разкъсали, слънцето пекна по раносутрешно (сигурно ще да е било около 3 и нещо през нощта), а аз нарамих въдичката и хайде пак към първия мост да си пробвам късмета отново. Тоя път за 10 минути извадих две риби. Преди да тръгна от вкъщи си бях купил кухненско алуминиево фолио, за да пека рибата. Но впоследствие се оказа, че това е единственото нещо, което съм забравил да сложа в раницата. А исках да пробвам рибката печена. Затова се наложи да проявя творчество - още докато обикалях по пътя бях намерил кенче от бира. С ножката го разрязах и разпънах, получавайки възможността да приготвя печена риба на “плоча”. Е… оказа се, че рибата много залепва по  ”плочата”, ама с повечко търпение успях да изпека повечето и я изядох. След което си легнах.

На следващия ден беше облачно, но не валеше. Сметнах, че съм получил това, за което бях спрял тук, събрах багажа и излязох да стопирам. След десетина минути вече отивах към Нарвик в колата на млад мъж. В колата реших да пробвам да си заредя батерията на фотоапарата, но се оказа, че кабела, който бях запоявал вкъщи нещо не работи. Естествено аз го скъсах и опитах да го вържа, но нещо не ставаше добре. Когато стигнахме до града, човекът спря в някакъв супермаркет за техника да потърсим нов кабел. Влязохме и питахме, но нямаше. Продавачът предложи някакво универсално зарядно. Човекът настоя да ми го купи, но аз отказах, защото беше доста скъпо (към 80 лева) а и нямаше да ми свърши добра работа.  Пък и имах намерение да си оправя кабела. И тогава на изпроводяк, той реши да помогне на пътуването ми, като ми даде 200 крони (около 50 лева). Представата ми за студенината на скандинавските народи се беше сринала тотално.  Остави ме на изхода на града. Там почаках към час и нещо, когато най-сетне спря една кола. Вътре бяха двама души - млада жена, която караше и млад мъж… който пиеше… На задната седалка стоеше кротко един стек бира. А аз се настаних до него. Тоя беше голям веселяк. Празнувал човека новата си кола, която току що купил (демек тая дето се возехме на нея). Разправяше, че бил сами (етническа група, населяваща най-северните части на Норвегия, Швеция и Финландия) и когато ме оставиха 50 км на север, на разклона за островите Лофотен, ми подари една бира, да помня с добро самитата :)). Там пък ми спряха две момчета с един микробус, преработен вътрешно на кемпер. Бяха швейцарци, пътуващи за около месец из Швеция и Норвегия. Не им беше много ясно до къде ще стигнат за вечерта, но за мен не беше и много важно. Бусчето беше интересно направено - бяха му топлоизолирали стените, имаше и двойно легло, под което имаше шкаф. Имаше и масичка с мивка, газов котлон и някакъв бидон с вода, монтиран на високо. Е, беше далеч от истински кемпер, ама им вършело работа. Там успях да си заредя и батерията, тъй като вече бях поправил кабела.  Прекосихме първия мост, навлизайки в първия остров. Наоколо беше доста зелено, а планините се издигаха буквално край шосето. Те обаче скоро решиха да спрат за деня - намериха си някакво подходящо място, където да пренощуват. Беше доста късно, може би някъде около 22, но втората кола, която мина по пътя ми спря. Възрастен мъж със сина си и негов приятел англичанин. Бяха много приятни за разговаряне хора и ме закараха доста километри напред, до следващото кръстовище, където се отклоняваха в различна от моята посока. Там се издигаха няколко върха, които изглеждаха доста интересни, затова реших да остана за през нощта. На кръстовището се строеше някаква голяма сграда, която доколкото схванах принадлежала на пътното и явно беше някакъв вид контролен център. Оставих си раницата под един навес и тръгнах да обикалям наоколо.


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