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Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl(&$output) in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1199

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl(&$output) in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1199

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el(&$output) in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1199

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el(&$output) in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1199

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_PageDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el(&$output) in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1244

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl(&$output) in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1391

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Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el(&$output) in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/classes.php on line 1391

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Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class wpdb in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/wp-db.php on line 306

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Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Comment::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl(&$output) in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/comment-template.php on line 1266

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Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Comment::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el(&$output) in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/comment-template.php on line 1266

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Comment::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el(&$output) in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/comment-template.php on line 1266

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class WP_Dependencies in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/class.wp-dependencies.php on line 31

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Strict Standards: Non-static method link_widgets::init() should not be called statically in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/link-widgets/link-widgets.php on line 187

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class nggdb in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/nextgen-gallery/lib/ngg-db.php on line 42

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class WP_PollDaddy in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/polldaddy/polldaddy.php on line 32

Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class WPORG_PollDaddy in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/polldaddy/polldaddy-org.php on line 12

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Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, integer given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737

Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, integer given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737

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Strict Standards: call_user_func_array() expects parameter 1 to be a valid callback, non-static method NAVT_FE::wp_head_wpcb() should not be called statically in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-includes/plugin.php on line 339

Strict Standards: Non-static method NAVT::get_option() should not be called statically in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/wordpress-navigation-list-plugin-navt/app/navt_fe.php on line 2230

Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737


Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737
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Здравейте,

според статистиката на сайта, все още има хора, които се навъртат насам - около 70-90 посещения дневно. Точно заради тях и не го спирам :) Сигурно има и хора, които не ме следят във фейсбук и не знаят какво се случва с мен.

Накратко казано - продължавам да снимам и пътувам, но много по-рядко. По едно триседмично пътуване на година-две, основно с фотографски цели.

Поводът да напиша този пост е новата ми страница :

http://ivanilarionov.com

На нея можете да разгледате най-добрите от снимките ми от 2008-ма година насам. В скоро бъдеще ще започна да пиша и фотографски постове в нея. Приятно гледане!

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Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737

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Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737
Норвегия част 4


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По мочурливите поляни се белееха пухчетата на памукова трева, а тук там стърчаха ниски криви брезоподобни дръвчета. По склоновете на скалистите върхове наоколо имаше все още нестопен сняг. След неуспешно търсене на хубав кадър в облачната нощ се изкачих на близкия хълм по новоизровен черен път, водещ към gsm клетка малко по-нагоре. От там се откри красива гледка към водите на фиорда, но въпреки всичко, не успявах да хвана нищо интересно. Времето течеше бавно, а утрото беше много далеч. Седнах на земята и засъзерцавах пейзажа. После слязох долу, където си бях оставил раницата и продължих търсенето по поляните в другата посока. Облаците постепенно се разкъсаха, но слънцето все още беше ниско над хоризонта и близкия хълм пазеше сянка. Включих на режим на изчакване, защото намерих красива поляна с много памукова трева и иглолистна гора в близката далечина и в края на краищата, когато слънцето се изкачи достатъчно високо се получиха условия за хубава снимка. След което почти доволен, се върнах при раницата и се заех да сготвя. Яденето в 4 през нощта не знам какво се води - вечеря или закуска, но вече бях доста гладен, така че напълних канчето с вода от близкото поточе и метнах ориза да се вари. А като екстра, добавих и малко от сушените масарлаци, които ми беше омръзнало да ям сурови.

След като хапнах се отправих към кръстовището, за да чакам да мине някоя заблудена кола. Намерих някаква дъска и седнах на нея, подпрян на мантинелата. Заблудени коли минаваха много рядко, но за лош късмет на всичките заблудата им водеше към другото разклонение на кръстовището. Докато грееше слънце всичко беше наред, но не след дълго то се скри и стана студенооо. Бях добре облечен, но стоенето на едно място седнал на земята хич не ме топлеше. Измислих си забавление - качвах се на ниската мантинела и се опитвах да измина максимално разстояние без да загубя равновесие.  Времето обаче минаваше мноого много бавно.  По някое време започнаха да минават и коли в моята посока, но по една през половин час. Една от тях спря на около 500 метра напред и шофьорът и взе да се суети покрай нея. След десетина минути дойде при мен - беше някакъв негър, който взе да ми обяснява, че му свършил бензина, а имал само пари в брой. Бензиностанциите в района обаче не  били денонощни и можело да си купиш гориво само с карта. Та ме питаше дали съм имал карта. Казах му, че нямам и той застана на кръстовището да спира минаващи коли, а аз взех да се чудя как точно бих могъл да му помогна аз, като нито бензиностанция има наоколо, нито има гориво, че да иде до най-близката такава. По едно време го взеха някакви момчета и спряха до колата му, а после не разбрах какво точно стана. Започна да ми се доспива и да ми става все по-студено. Най-накрая към 8 часа ми спря един възрастен чичо. Отиваше на двайсетина километра, а на мен ми оставаха около 70 до най-голямото градче на островите - Сволвар, но и двайсетина километра бяха по-добре от нищо. Поне щях да се стопля и да мина на другия остров. Човекът не говореше английски, а и на мен така ми се спеше, че хич не бях до разговори. Успях да дремна малко преди да ме стовари до едно съвсем малко селце, съставено от няколко къщи. Мястото беше на брега на морето и духаше много студен вятър, който анулираше ефекта от греещото слънце.

За късмет едно момиче бързо ме спаси. Колата и беше пълна с къмпингарска екипировка - живеела в Бодо и отивала в селцето Хенингсвар, малко по-нататък от Сволвар. Там имало скали, които привличали много катерачи. Пътьом спряхме за закуска на едно хълмче, към което се откриваше гледка към най-високите върхове на островите.  Когато стигнахме в Сволвар пред нас излезе трудната задача да намерим къде ще мога да си опъна палатката. Градчето е разположено на брега на морето, а край него се издигат стръмни скали, както и няколко езера, и съвсем не предлага много места, където човек да може да къмпингува. Решихме да ме остави в горната част на града, където имаше някакъв къмпинг, за който тя преполагаше, че е безплатен. Слязох там, а тя си продължи по пътя. Но естествено къмпингът съвсем не беше безплатен, така че трябваше да си търся друго място. Пообиколих наоколо и след като не намерих нищо, реших да се върна доста назад - на около километър преди да влезем в града на брега имаше малка полянка, където бяха спрели 1-2 кемпера. Беше около обяд, а слънцето спряло сърдито печеше. Нямаше нито едно облаче на небето и с 27-те колограма на гърба ме стана горещо. Дори се наложи да обуя сандалите, увеличавайки още повече теглото на раницата. Преди да изляза от града намерих библиотеката, където имаше безплатен интернет. После лека полека излязох от града и намерих мястото.  Шосето беше съвсем близо, спираха хора с коли и кемпери, мястото не беше особено равно, а най-близката вода беше на километър (чешми на градското гробище). Но друго просто нямаше, затова се примирих с кусурите му и си опънах палатката. Останалата част от следобеда го проспах, беше крайно време.

Основната ми цел край този град беше 600 метровия скалист връх Флоя и привечер към 9 тръгнах нагоре. След доста драпане по стръмни камънаци, след час и нещо бях горе. От върха се откриваше мащабна гледка както към града, така и към планините във всички посоки, включително към близкия остров Литлмола. Обаче времето продължаваше да бъде слънчево и безоблачно, което съвсем не ме радваше. Прекарах няколко часа, гледайки как слънцето се спуска към хоризонта и още преди да го достигне се издигаше нагоре. Хората идват по тия ширини, за да видят среднощното слънце. Мен обаче то не ме радваше, защото ми отнемаше възможността за снимки при интересна светлина. След като слязох хапнах и легнах да спя. На другия ден ходих на пазар. За пръв път ми се отдаваше възможност да разгледам добре голям супермаркет. Повечето храни бяха ужасно скъпи, но все пак успях да намеря няколко евтини неща. Имаше еднокилограмови кутии сладко по около 4 лева, половин килограм макарони за 1.50 лв, доматен сос за спагети в консервна кутия за 2 лева, килограм сирене за около 17 лева. И хляб за около 2 лева. Купих си и кило сливи за 4 лева. Все пак ми трябваха някакви витамини, а това бяха най-евтините плодове. И така, натоварен с продукция се върнах към палатката. Там заварих две коли народ насядал на чаршафи на поляната, а на две скари цвърчаха кебапчета и риба. Жените бяха забрадени и облечени в шарени дрехи, а от колите гъгнеше някаква източна музика. В началото реших, че са турци, но след като се заслушах в речта им, не успях да я идентифицирам. Бяха само на 5 метра от палатката ми. Тъкмо като си сварих макароните, към мен, с пластмасова чиния в ръце дойде един от мъжете. В нея се беше излегнало едно дълго кебапче нанизано на шиш, нарязана краставица и нещо странно, напомнящо хляб, във вид на съвсем тънка влажна кора. Човекът ми връчи чинията и каза - яж, много вкусно! Оказаха се кюрди от Ирак.  Кебапчето и краставицата бяха направо като дар небесен за изстрадалата ми диета :) По-късно се опитах да ловя риба на скалите, но водата беше плитка и имаше доста водорасли, и не продължих с опитите прекалено дълго.  Вечерта отново се качих на върха, но времето пак беше като предишната вечер. На другия ден си събрах багажа, минах набързо през библиотеката, след което се насочих излязох на централната улица, която пресича града и на една спирка взех да стопирам. Има няма след 10 минути две около 20 годишни момичета ми спряха. Отиваха към Лекнес, най-голямото градче на следващия остров. Пътьом обаче спряхме за кратка разходка в Хенингсвар - малкото рибарско градче, с катерачните скали край него. Момичетата ме оставиха  в края на Лекнес, където бързо ми спря бусче с мъж и жена, отиващи към другия остров. Времето продължаваше да е слънчево и хората бяха в много добро настроение, защото успели да се изкъпят в морето. Водата била цели 16 градуса!  На мен хич не ми се стори топла, когато правих имровизирано къпане по-предния ден. Но на мен всичко под 23 градуса ми се струва неприемливо студено за къпане. На всичкото отгоре аз исках динамично време, а не чисто небе без облаци.  Но както се казва, каквото дал господ.

Слязох край едно селце и полека лека излязох и продължих по крайбрежното шосе около километър и нещо. Наоколо нямаше никакво подходящо място за палатка, а вятърът духаше доста силно, което затрудни още повече нещата. Затова временно метнах раницата край едни камъни. На това място имаше останки от няколко бункера от втората световна война, които бяха отбелязани като туристическа атракция. Имаше също и нещо като цилиндрична кула с височина 4-5 метра, построена от камъни, която беше отбелязана като произведение на алтернативното изкуство. Нещо не можах да разбера какво изкуство има в един каменен цилиндър, ама нейсе, нали все пак трябва да има какво да гледат туристите.  В следващия час пообиколих насам натам и накрая намерих едно закътано място между няколко дървета недалеч от пътя и се инсталирах там. Хич не беше равно, но по-добро нямаше. Цяла нощ обикалях по пътя и успях да направя няколко що-годе прилични кадъра, но така и не постигнах добро удовлетворение.  Към малките часове се върнах да спя в палатката. От другата страна на шосето имаше една постройка, около която на дървени върлини висяха сушащи се риби. Тук е мястото да вметна, че из тези части на Норвегия е силно развит риболова на риба треска. Рибата се лови в края на зимата, чисти се и се мята да съхне на въпросните върлини. Гледката е интересна, миризмата е трудно да се нарече приятна, но най-голямата загадка беше как така безбройните чайки и други птици не я изяждат. Малко по-късно един гръм ме разбуди. По-късно установих, че на всеки половин или един час се произвеждаше по един изстрел. И понеже нямаше хора на въпросното място, реших, че това може да е някаква система за сплашване на птиците. По-късно пък хора ми казаха, че  рибарите връзвали на няколко места мъртви чайки и така другите се плашели и се държали на разстояние. Нямам обаче представа доколко е достоверно това.

На другия ден сгънах багажа и излязох на пътя. За нула време ме взе кола с шведско семейство, които отиваха там, където и аз - в Райне - малко градче на последния от свързаните с тунели и мостове острови. Отдавна очаквах да стигна там, защото острите и почти вертикални скални стени го правят едно от най-впечатляващите места на островите. Още като се подготвях за пътуването знаех, че тук ще е най-трудно да намеря място за палатката, защото почти няма равни места извън градчето. Но въпреки това, намерих неподозирано място - на няколко метра от шосето, зад един насип от пръст имаше стар и неизползван черен път, дълъг двайсетина метра. А в началото му имаше и малко водопадче. По-добре нямаше накъде. И понеже нямаше какво да правя все още, хванах въдицата  и се засилих да търся място за риболов.

На около два километра назад шосето прескачаше фиордите по няколко поредни моста, където ми се стори, че ще мога да ловя. Мостовете обаче бяха прекалено високи, за да се лови от тях. Отсреща на една скала на брега имаше рибар и аз отидох също там. Десетина минути по-късно той се отказа, но аз продължих да упорствам и след около още двайсетина минути вече имах две добри скумрии. Бяха напълно достатъчно. Въпросния рибар се беше преместил на отсрещния бряг, където имаше и друг. На връщане минах да ги видя дали са хванали нещо. Бяха шведи, въоръжени с много скъпи такъми и цяло сандъче с най-различни видове блесни. Но бяха хванали само 1 риба. Защото се целеха в един голяяям торшк (вид риба, която яде всичко). Тая риба се виждаше как блести из водораслите и наистина изглеждаше огромна. Със сигурност над 10 кила. И двамата бяха изпълнени с еуфория и сменяха какви ли не блесни, мятаха буквално до нея, но тя изобщо не обръщаше внимание. По-късно дойде и местно семейство с две деца, а аз се върнах да сваря скумриите. Безоблачното време продължаваше и настроението ми все повече се скапваше. Ужасно е потискащо, когато си тръгнал за снимки, а времето изобщо няма намерение да отвърне на плановете ти.

На другия ден станах сравнително рано сутринта и се насочих към близкия 500 метров връх, чието име не само не помня, но и трудно мога да възпроизведа. Нещо от сорта на алабала..тинден. Повечето върхове в Норвегия завършват на “тинден”. Не щото много ги кефи тая дума, ами просто защото значи “връх” :). По-важното е, че от този връх се открива брутална гледка.  A изкачването макар и с малка денивелация е много стръмно, а пътеката много изровена. На няколкото почти равни квадратни метра на върха заварих палатка. Ето на това му се вика ентусиазъм (или мазохизъм) - да завлечеш горе палатка по тоя стръмен чукар.  А от другата страна на върха скалата е направо вертикална. Гледката беше наистина впечатляваща, но на небето нямаше нито облаче. Пълна фотографска мъка. Но пък се разписах в книгата на върха. На български при това :). Чак привечер от север и северозапад взеха лека полека да се събират облаци. Направих разходка до съседните села на 5-6 километра и докато се върна над морето се скупчиха дори буреносни облаци, под които изгря ярка дъга. Най-накрая готино време! Обикалях край и в градчето посред нощ и си търсех кадри. Дъжд така и не успя да завали като хората, но пък небето от източната страна доста се позачерви.


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Норвегия част 3


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На сутринта дъждът беше спрял и можех да сгъна палатката и да продължа. Планините наоколо се криеха в ниски облаци и беше въпрос на време да завали отново. Излязох на шосето облечен в дъждовните си дрехи и замахах. Имаше доста трафик, но таях известни подозрения, че повечето коли отиват някъде наблизо. Когато след час и нещо най-сетне един възрастен господин с голям джип ме качи, подозренията ми се потвърдиха. …… »

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Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737

Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737

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Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737
Норвегия част 2


Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737

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През нощта ме събуди глас: „Не можете да спите тук“. Беше 6 и нещо и жената беше дошла да отваря заведението. Аз станах, събрах си шалтето и спалния чувал, натъпках ги в раницата , минах през тоалетната на къмпинга отзад, след което тръгнах към бензиностанцията отсреща. Времето беше ясно и слънцето изгря рано рано. …… »

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Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737

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Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737
Норвегия част 1


Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737

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И така,  най-накрая започнах да пиша пътеписа за Норвегия. Ще го публикувам на няколко части,  едно защото не съм го довършил още и второ, защото ще излезе дългичък. Може би ще бъдете малко разочаровани, защото в тази първа част няма снимки, но тогава не съм вадил апарата от раницата, защото не е имало нищо интересно за снимане, а и пестях батериите максимално. Приятно четене! …… »

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Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737

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Warning: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in /home/itilien/public_html/wp-content/plugins/qtranslate/qtranslate_core.php on line 737
Норвегия - фиорди и планини


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